Wednesday, June 5, 2013

Good Bye Weimar


Good morning Herr Goethe!

The Theaterplatz has already been swept clean, the cafés are, one by one, unlocking their doors, the Ducal Vault will, no doubt, be open to the public today. The sun promises to stay around most of the day. And I am on my way home. I am sad in a way I am usually not when I leave a temporary home. Is this really my last trip to Weimar? For now I will give you a final look from my window over the roof tops behind Heinrich Heine Strasse. The bus leaves in a few minutes and soon the train will carry me to Frankfurt. Tomorrow I will be home again and will tell you about my trip to the cemetery, the interlude at the tea shop, and the thoughts and opinions that remain on my mind.

Until soon.
G.





Location:Weimar

Tuesday, June 4, 2013

Acts of Love

Good Morning Herr Goethe!



Forgive me my dear friend, if the following lines are boring, they are meant to preserve the content of two very different events which have the same underlying theme - love. I wrote them not so much with you in mind, but to make sure I won't forget the details by the time I arrive home.

Event #2 at the mon ami Kino.

A depressing avant garde film in a retro movie theatre. That's what I stumbled into late Sunday afternoon. Down the stairs, around the corner, past storage and bar and projection cubicle into a seventy to eighty seat room with a curtained screen, a piano, and several half windows to the street above. The money taker/proprietor/projectionist pulled the shades over the windows, closed the doors, and for fifteen people who spread across the theatre the film unfolded. I speculate that, in the end, fifteen different opinions left the movie theatre.

"Das Herz ist ein dunkler Wald" (The heart is a dark forest) is the story of a marriage- of Thomas and Marie, and their two small children. The parents were once in love, but Thomas is always away and Marie is always home. She cries. He resents her crying. One day she finds out that he leads a double life; he has another woman and a son.

The things that make me cringe are probably familiar and not so bizarre to Germans, but my Americanized mind has a hard time with castles as ordinary places (though most of the time the action took place in the family's sixties style bungalow, the castle somehow caught my attention with its bizarre, erotic ball. And total nudity as a routine state in films is a bit unsettling for me. Partial nudity in the scene of Papa in the tub, his penis bobbing to the surface of the water and his little girl standing by the door, seem pornographic. At any rate, Marie leaves her sleeping children and goes to a masquerade ball in the castle where her violin playing husband performs; she makes out with some guy who wants his one of a kind jacket back when they are done, which leaves her naked in the woods. She ends up rolling into a lake, sees her father commit suicide, takes his gun, rides a bus home, totally nude. The last scene is ...... well, I don't want to give away the ending, but it is not pleasant.

Surreal. Dark. Forced? The film won a prize. I was not convinced.

Besides a star cast (I won't name them since I don't know them anyway) , there is an overwhelming assortment of music from opera to techno to pop, but there are no really memorable moments. Unfair role distribution between man and woman and neglect of children are obvious themes, but not to the point that they force me into deep thought. But then, it could be that I had exhausted my deep thoughts earlier in the day at a piano concert.

Event #1 at the Goethe Museum/Wohnhaus am Frauenplan

Yes, Herr Goethe, it happened in your home. From the ceiling hung sparkling chandeliers and along the walls precious porcelain was displayed in glass cases. There must have been around fifty of us; we sat in total silence and without moving as much as an inch. A captivated audience.

The artist, Cora Irsen, played pieces by Robert Schumann, by Clara Schumann, and by Johannes Brahms. She also read from letters and diaries, leaving me in sadness and with deep sympathy for Clara.

Robert Schumann had the wish that his wife give up all outside activities, including her own career, to take care of him and devote herself to the family. She bore him eight children in fourteen years, but the Schumanns also traveled extensively; Clara seems to have been a strong woman who never gave up her own ambitions.

Robert Schumann had his difficulties, hearing voices, especially the note A5, seeing angelic and later demonic visions. He was given to depression. He tried to commit suicide by jumping from a bridge and afterwards voluntarily entered an insane asylum.

Not until the much younger Johannes Brahms came into their lives did Clara have somebody who listened to her. Johannes became a friend to both of them. and though Clara did not see her husband again until two days before he died, Brahms visited him regularly.

After his death Clara and Johannes spent a great deal of time making Schumann's work known to the public. While Johannes spoke of his love for Clara in his letters to her earlier, they seem to have remained just friends after Schumann was gone.

Not only did Cora Irsen read from the correspondence between the Schumanns and Brahms, she also read some of your poems, Herr Goethe.

I don't know enough of the relationships explored, really don't know if there was love, romance, or just plain friendship between Clara and Johannes - a subject to be pursued when I get home - but I was moved to tears by the musical pieces and accompanying selection of letters and diary entries.

After the performance I bought Cora Irsen's CD "Franz Liszt in Weimar" and asked if she would allow me to take a photograph of her. She kindly offered to have a photograph taken of us together. I was touched and, once again, reminded why I like Weimar: it is the small town atmosphere that makes encounters so personal. It is easier to chat with concert goers when the performance is small and I imagine that there is much less time for Ms. Irsen to show this side of herself in a large theater performance. At any rate, I was very happy when I left your home. I had just witnessed not only the reproduction of historic events, but also had felt the deep underlying powers of music.

Bis morgen, Herr Goethe.

















Location:Weimar

Saturday, June 1, 2013

Spazier-Theater

Good morning Herr Goethe!



I had the most magical experience last night. It started at 20:00 Uhr (8pm) Almost missed it because of the rain. But... I had paid €12.00 for the ticket on Thursday, after I had seen the advertisement somewhere around town, and so I put the beanie on my head, wrapped the warm scarf around my neck, packed my purse into the plastic bag, and grabbed my bandaged umbrella.

"SpazierTheater" - going for a walk theatre- it said. And I was curious. Somebody would walk me and others, for an hour and a half, through Weimar, in 5 acts (?) and show me all the houses Goethe had lived in.

"Meet at Herderplatz, in front of Sächsischer Hof."


Herderplatz is torn up, friendly signs point at a restaurant where one gets a special discount for renovation related difficulties. A cup of coffee and a piece of cake for €2.50, indeed a bargain. Weimar is in a continuous state of Umbau; I suppose traffic is becoming a nightmare and ancient buildings and streets are in need of repair to stay viable.

Here then, at the Herder church side of the restaurant, at ten minutes to eight, after sitting and chatting in the Sächsischer Hof outdoor area for a while, I find a man with a modified bicycle. He opens what might once have been a postal carrier's leather bag and introduces himself as Gottfried Böttner, administrator of postal affairs under Carl August from 1804 to 1827. He checks our tickets, supplies us with tags to be worn on our coats, there are about 20 of us, and at the stroke of eight he begins his magical, and so wonderfully entertaining "play in five acts."

After that it was pure magic. Herr Böttner, the postal servant, read letters from you to friends and from friends to you. He displayed cut outs of you and Frau von Stein, explained relationships as we traveled from house to house, showed you and your friend Carl August riding, read an excerpt from the Roman Elegies and other poems, imitated you in Italy by wearing a floppy hat, and, toward the end of his presentation, in front of your house at the Frauenplan, in the dim evening light, he talked about your death.



































When he had finished we all clapped very hard and for a long time. I told him that this was the most impressive and most heart-felt Goethe presentation I had seen. And it is true, even the theatre pieces I had seen during my last Weimar trip did not come near the emotional impact of this one man show with simple yet effective props that made you come alive.
As I walked away I felt that, deep in the interior of your house, or maybe at the edge of the town, in the garden house, you paced the floor, eager to engage me in a conversation. I didn't sleep for hours last night, thinking about the bicycle, the simple stage, the costume, the letters, and the man who called himself Gottfried Böttner. I wished I could see him, next week,as your gardener, Ferdinand Herzog, walking through The Park on the Ilm, talking about the trees and the bushes and flowers you planted and the words you spoke about your time there.







This morning I read that he is the man behind the "Figurentheater" in Weimar and that he will perform Herr Schiller's Wilhelm Tell at the local library on the day I return home.

Location:Weimar

Friday, May 31, 2013

The Perfect Design

Good Morning Herr Goethe!





This is not a trip for museum hopping! This is a journey across magic cobblestone patterns. An invitation to linger on roadside benches. A chance to count the colors of umbrellas, to ponder the faces, the likes, the gestures of other travelers, to listen to guides and story tellers and nightingales. This trip offers signs - written, spoken, painted, pounded into the earth - and without the pressure of pre-planned activities I let the moment tell me what to do.




Take this bench, for instance. I leaned against it. It was wet, unfriendly, not ready to be in use. Rain puddled in front of it. And when I looked up I saw an unexpected site, your garden house. A tiny spot far away. And when I continued my walk through the Ilm Park this morning, I came across many more benches, each placed strategically for observation.



I saw tree trunks that had formed into strange forms many years ago, and I saw the rise of the Ilm that had happened over night. I was aware of the dangers that might lie ahead. Fire engines sounded their alarms across town, bridges and roadways were closed, the rain continued.















But I walked on and succeeded to find the Roman House (Römerhaus), visited inside, and saw, from, I think it was the blue room, your house again.

Later, after my energy had waned, (I had walked several miles in the rain) I sat on a bench at the Marketplace in town for a while, eating a Thüringer bratwurst, observing others doing the same. Have you ever noticed how serious people are when they eat. I guess one can not smile while taking a bite or chewing.









The day before I had sat on the same bench watching umbrellas go by.












Sometimes, in recent days, I have had the feeling that I am painting my own world with colors that don't belong to me. I am not quite sure what I am looking for and so I get greedy and take it all, just in case I have need for it later. I photograph walls that have been decorated with poetry or anger or sadness. I want them to shout their secrets at me.













And then I look at myself, in the mirror, in a window, and wonder how it feels to be that person who lives, for a short time, in a magic place. A place she will, most likely, never see again. I smile at her and promise that I will gather all her memories and sculpt them into a perfect design.




















Wednesday, May 29, 2013

Adaptations of the Mind

Good morning Herr Goethe!

The writer has a distinct advantage over the traveler who only seeks comfort in his journeys. The writer allows herself to observe minor complications with a touch of humor. Take this morning's shower for instance. (I know, Herr Goethe, showers, their advantages and failures did not preoccupy your mind, but I also know that you were no stranger to unforeseen adventures and adaptations of the mind.)

This morning's shower started, as usual, with the (by me) selected water temperature. I already knew that I would have to work swiftly, since the stream might change in volume as well as temperature at any time. I rinsed my scalp, but not fast enough. I was holding the open shampoo container in my hand when the flow changed from warm to icy cold. I dropped the little shampoo bottle. It threatened to empty itself into the drain. Quickly I opened the shower door, reached for a couple of underthings and dropped them on the slick shower floor, since it is very difficult to keep one's footage without safety bumps or a bathmat; neither seem to be in use any longer. I stepped on my improvised mat, bent my body - carefully, slowly - in the direction of the drain. Just then my back responded to yet another change in water temperature and my head almost hit the tiled wall of my tiny enclosure. Here I have to add that chemo therapy seems to have impacted my balance and I sometimes stumble, even when the path is direct and unobstructed. But my body listens to my commands - at least most of the time - and I retrieved the bottle, shampooed my head, washed the rest of me without problem, though not without a few more temperature changes. When I was finished I managed to extract myself from my little torture cell without stumbling , a cautious attempt at freestyle maneuvering of body and limbs, since there is no safety bar to hold on to, nor is there any other reliable construct. I felt refreshed, clean, unhurt, and ready for the day. These sentences began to form in my mind without the benefit of my first morning cup of coffee, but not before I retrieved the underthings, wrung excess water out of them, placed them into a towel, rolled them up, and stomped on the roll with my bare feet. Voila! Clean laundry to hang over the shower frame.

After getting fully dressed I took the obligatory morning shot of the roof tops nearby, wrote this little essay, made and ate breakfast, tidied the apartment, recorded, briefly, an exchange between two nearby birds, and finally ..... well ....... off I go.......














Location:Weimar

Tuesday, May 28, 2013

I Return




Good Morning Herr Goethe!

It has been three years since I last addressed you from Weimar. I don't know what this time accounts for in eternity. One moment? Too long to have stayed friends? I would hope that eternity does not engage calendars and clocks and we are forever connected by the mere words of my acknowledged interest in your life and times.

In earth-time it has been a busy interval for me. I lived through illness, death in the family, new artistic ambitions, other travels, and an endless array of minor interests. Though I have not spoken to you, I have, nevertheless, felt your presence in my life frequently. I have devoted a great many hours to getting to know your female friends. Women like Lili Schönemann who was your first love, Charlotte Kestner, who became Lotte in "Werther", Fridericke Brion whom you met in Sessenheim in 1770, the young woman you adored when you were eighty years old, and, of course, Charlotte von Stein, your most noted companion, and your wife, Christiane Vulpius. In all I met twelve women. I am sure there are others, but I would have to spend a lot more time to find them.

Christiane seems the most fitting. The woman who forgave your escapades. Who made your garden a paradise and your meals fit for a king. Who bore you five children, entertained your guests, didn't succumb to gossip and always was ready to listen to your poems. You picked well.

Herr Goethe, I am in your Weimar again. While, during my last visit, I stuck a white rose into the snow in front of your garden house in deep winter, this time, in late spring, I would like to bring you something different, but what? I think I will leave this up to chance as I do with most everything on this journey into the past. Yes, it is a journey into the past - a rather minimal past for me, since I was here only once before. And yet, my memories have formed certain images, based on my limited knowledge of the town. I am here to deepen and color these images.

Floods and icy winds have made it nearly impossible during these first days after my return to observe the locale, to compare the landscape of then and now; most of the time I was preoccupied with securing a certain level of comfort. I hunted for a cap to cover my shivering head. Fought the deterioration of my umbrella. Reinforced the vulnerable cloth of my shopping bag with a plastic liner. Dried my inappropriate summer foot gear - those wonderful walking shoes I recently bought - atop a built in room heater that barely functions. And, as if all these mundane daytime concerns weren't enough, I was awakened several times during the last two nights by my own sneezing and coughing.

But - Herr Goethe - this morning I heard a bird sing. The puddle of water on the flat roof in front of my window was still. The bright light of the sun now blinds me from its easterly seat on a pale grey-blue sky. I am going to explore the town as it recuperates. As the benches dry. As outdoor cafés reclaim their territories. As the barricades lift. As May 29th progresses and my feet take me on a leisurely journey across familiar and unfamiliar cobble-stoned streets.

G.

(P.S. I will go into my river cruise experience a bit later. Right now I am off into the great and mostly dry outdoors.)